Assembling a Pixel Controller

Building a pixel controller is very similar to building a PC. You basically pick out the components you want, and screw and wire them together. You can mix and match parts to a large extent to ensure you have a solution that matches what you want to accomplish this year as well as leave room for future expansion of your show. It takes some basic wiring skills, and a couple of hand tools, but is really pretty easy for anyone who has done other DIY projects. I find this is the most rewarding way to go — you save significant money and you really develop a better understanding of how everything works.

Here are the basic parts you need to build a pixel controller:

• Controller board — this is sort of like the motherboard in a PC — this is what actually wires to your lights, providing power and data signals
  • Some (like Kulp) are a “cape” that sits on top of a BeagleBone Single Board Computer (SBC) — the SBC runs the operating system (in this case FPP) and can eliminate the need for a separate Raspberry Pi SBC running FPP
  • Others like Falcon controllers usually take direction from FPP running on a separate SBC on the network
  • Some can run xLights sequences directly off a memory card inserted into the board – this can make show updates challenging, since you will need to physically eject the memory card and plug it into a computer to change sequences vs. just pushing changes over the network
• SBC designed to support the controller board (only if using a cape type board)
• Mini-SD card extender (optional) — for tight spaces to make it easier to access SD memory card
• Power supplies — one or more AC to DC power supplies sized to accommodate the expected loads on the controller (usually assume 80% max load on supplies)
• Heavy gauge wire – usually 10 gauge hookup wire to connect power supplies to board
• Cabinet — waterproof cabinet sized to fit all components; can be pre-drilled with required holes for cables or can drill own
• Power cord — power cord to bring power from AC outlet to power supplies
• Pig Tails — short cables that will exit the cabinet through waterproof “glands” that will connect to the lights (provide power and data signals) — quantity will correspond to number of ports on your controller
• Cable glands — various sized waterproof glands that allow cables to pass through cabinet — usually sized for power, pig tails (e.g. xConnect) and ethernet
• Mounting plate kit — vendor and cabinet specific mounting plate kit to attach board and power supplies; some people choose to DIY this, but a pre-made solution saves lots of time and effort
• Vent kit — provides air vent for cabinet to keep everything from overheating
• Pole mounting kit (optional) – designed to mount controller onto metal pole (often MegaTree pole)

Photos of 16 port Kulp controller with dual 350 watt power supplies and BeagleBone Black